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UNESCO World Heritage
listing has been successfully achieved for Champagne (and Burgundy). Félicitations to all our friends in Champagne! Scenes of jubilation occurred on the streets of Hautvillers, in the Place du Forum in Reims, in the Place de la République and the main square in Épernay. Santé à tous!
Kaaren Palmer
Champagne Editor Galaxy Guides
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The annual musical festival
the Flâneries Musicales de Reims, this year features 59 concerts in the month beginning 18th June. In over forty diverse locations, such as the Halles Boulingrin Markets, Taittinger’s House of the Counts of Champagne, the Abbey of St. Rémi (where the opening concert featured Handel’s Messiah), the courtyard of Krug, and the Place du Forum, about a third of the concerts are free. The culmination of the Festival on 18th July is a huge picnic concert in the Parc du Champagne featuring the Orchestre National de Lille under the baguette (that’s what the conductor’s baton is called) of Jean-Claude Casadesus, with works by Bizet (L’Arlésienne) and Orff (Carmina Burana). Information and Reservations here please click here
Be overjoyed at the profusion of high-quality artists, won over by the inexpensive price of tickets, amazed at the generous sponsorship of many of the Houses of Champagne. For performances in the Place du Forum, consult the daily boards there, or click here for more details; for restaurant service at a table, book well in advance.
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While staying in Reims
don’t forget to check out the purveyors of champagne for that special bottle or three to take home. Gil, behind the cathedral, at Le Vintage, has many treasures. Damien and Xavier at CPH La Grande Boutique du Vin (Champagne Philipponnat tasting last Saturday in June between 11am and 5pm and always something good there), 3 Place Léon Bourgeois, and Fabrice and Noémie (or Marie-Eve) in the cobweb-infested cellars of Les Caves du Forum, 10 rue Courmeaux off the forum, are also good. For grower champagnes of the organic and bio variety, taste and buy at Au Bon Manger (Warning! The delectable deli section is choice and fattening!), or cosset yourself on the banquette with knowledgeable and charming Nicolas, a plate of charcuterie and the divine list at Le Wine Bar, conveniently located on the Place du Forum within hearing distance of everything happening on the stage of the cryptoportique. A piece of my heart is always there!
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Duval-Leroy
(established 1859 by wine merchants Jules Duval and Édouard Leroy), has enjoyed an interesting journey at least since Carol Duval-Leroy was thrust into the position of determining the journey of the House in 1991, after the early death of her husband, Jean-Charles Duval. The dynamic Carole employed an early adopter of all things natural, winemaker Hervé Jestin, known for producing wines of intense flavour and singular interest. The House became the first to receive the ISO 9002 certification, in 1994, the same year that yours truly was implementing the same system, albeit in quite a different industry. Champagne Duval-Leroy was the first winery in the world to adopt solar photovoltaic power in 2009, five years earlier than chez moi did the same for domestic consumption. In 2010, rainwater was recovered for use (chez Palmer has only ever used rain water), and trumped everybody with a wall of plants used for sound insulation. In 2010, Madame Duval-Leroy was again the first, this time to achieve triple certification IFS, BRC and ISO 22000 for food safety. Composed of 70% recycled glass, Champagne Duval-Leroy’s bottles feature Amorim cork from sustainable forests. Where possible, local suppliers are used in the company’s attempt to reduce carbon emissions. All these initiatives combined with organic grapes from the the Côte des Bar and the Montagne de Reims yield Authentis, vintage champagne made from biodynamic Pinot Noir vinified in oak. Single vineyard champagne from Clos des Bouveries in Vertus reflects the climate of each year of its production. Scrupulous work in the vineyard, which also consists of the daily analysis of climatic and vegetative data, helps the House understand the significant impact of climate change on the vine in these northern vineyards, where average temperatures have already risen 2°C in the last 50 years. The House hopes in this way to better face the environmental challenges of the next thirty years. Meanwhile, Champagne Duval-Leroy is not just winning environmental awards, but producing delicious champagne – Pinot and Meunier dominant Brut, Chardonnay dominant Fleur Premier-Cru, a vintage Blanc de Blancs blend as well as the vintage Clos de Bouveries of the same grape variety, Authentis single vineyard from Cumières in particular vintages – sometimes a Bouzy-only vintage, and sometimes that rare Champagne grape which did not adapt to grafting so easily – Petit Meslier, in an occasional vintage. Rosé, of course, lifted with Chardonnay, coloured with Pinot. The glorious Femme de Champagne is, of course, the cuvée de prestige – Chardonnay with a soupçon of Pinot Noir. Santé, et vive la reine, vive Maison Duval-Leroy!
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Michael Edwards
whose book, The Finest Wines of Champagne, we love, reveals six of his favourites from the Champagne Bureau tasting in London (March) – Jacquesson 738 being his first choice, and one which the lucky members of the Springfield Champagne Group and guests sampled as part of a vertical showing for the House of Jacquesson some few months ago. Yours truly snaffled some further bottles the very next day, and a quick survey reveals that there are still supplies available around the $80 mark in New South Wales. It’s a keeper; coiled brilliance from great winemakers who know that great wine begins in the vineyard, based on the best year of recent release, 2008. Best price by the dozen click here
Edwards is not the only one in love with Veuve Clicquot’s offering of vintage Rosé 2004, although his choice is La Grande Dame, which appears laced with cherry kernel aptly described by Edwards as kirsch. The vintage offering is what the Palmer cellar acquired, and it, too, has that same perfumed quality aided by the 14% of red wine from Bouzy, added for colour and flavour. 33% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir, 7% Meunier; silky smooth palate. Top drop!
To see the rest of Michael Edwards’ beauties click here
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Madame Bollinger
drank champagne any time – ‘I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty’. But there is an event coming closer to each of us every day, and we can make it easier by choosing our favourite bubble, hoping that our doctor has the best bedside manner and will toast us at the same time. It’s what I’m intending to do – following this doctor’s orders click here to read more.
below the remarkable Madame Bollinger.
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Grower Champagne
sales have declined somewhat in Australia, from a high of 3.3% of shipments in 2012, down to 1.3% last year, but the rest of the world is extremely excited. Just under 35% of all champagne sold in France originates with growers (identified by the initials R.M. on the bottle), and almost a million bottles a year (5%) in the U.S., moving to half a million in Germany (3%), urging to seven hundred thousand (6.5%) in Japan, steady at 11.8% in Italy, and the country of my cousins (Sweden, leaning to 6%). Jancis Robinson listed her favourite growers in her last missive, and almost all whom she mentions are available worldwide, and represented in our cellar. Much as we adore the magic of the blend, there is such a strong personality in grower champagne that they’ve generated an excitement and new interest in the whole area. To subscribe to Jancis please click here (No, we are not related, despite the straight fair hair, although I have been asked.) Here are some good, free links:
http://www.snooth.com/articles/grower-champagne-niche-is-growing/ and Ted Schleffler discusses the reward and beauty of ageing on cork http://www.cityweekly.net/TheDailyFeed/archives/2015/05/06/wine-wednesday-jean-lallemont-brut-champagne
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And, the debate goes on...which glass is the right glass for champagne..but since the inception of our favourite beverage there are hundreds of styles and shapes that have been pronounced perfect for drinking champagne.
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